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Search resuls for: "Bryan Washington"


8 mentions found


The Hunt for the Ideal Bánh Mì
  + stars: | 2023-09-06 | by ( Bryan Washington | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +2 min
In the 1950s, bánh mì skewed further from French tastes and closer to the distinctly Vietnamese iterations that are ubiquitous today. Since the 1970s, when the Vietnamese diaspora became a global presence, bánh mì have proliferated as well. Their bánh mì crunched like a symphony, accompanied by what was likely the best chile crisp I’ve ever had. Ideally, you’ll pick up the baguettes and butter from a Vietnamese bakery or bánh mì shop. But it’s always worth going extra on the pork shoulder; leftovers hold the promise of future bánh mì.
Persons: bánh, you’ll, it’s Locations: Vietnam, Houston, Amsterdam, Seattle, Ba, Tokyo, Harris, Fort Bend, Swig, mayo, you’re
Recipes That Meet You Where You Are
  + stars: | 2023-08-04 | by ( Sam Sifton | More About Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
I came down with Covid for the second time last week, and it left me shivering, sweating, panting a little, unable to sleep, unable to get out of bed. I drank a lot of Gatorade and swallowed my dose of Paxlovid in the mornings and at night. I ate little. High on the list: Bryan Washington’s new recipe for chilaquiles verdes (above), which he wrote about for The New York Times Magazine. “Like so much of cooking’s calculus,” he said, “chilaquiles are as much about feel as about measurements and instructions.”
Persons: Covid, spacey, Bryan Washington’s, , Organizations: Gatorade, chilaquiles verdes, The New York Times Magazine
The Best Chilaquiles You’ve Ever Had
  + stars: | 2023-08-02 | by ( Bryan Washington | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +2 min
The dish exists within the larger continuum of Mexican meals maximizing tortillas and salsa. You could layer your chilaquiles with a litany of bacon, chorizo, chicken, shrimp or whichever combination will get you closer to God. An ex of mine insisted on tossing his chips in salt, immediately after frying them, claiming it’s how his aunt would stack her chilaquiles. If variety makes life worth living, it’s hard to think of a better mascot than chilaquiles. If variety makes life worth living, it’s hard to think of a better mascot than chilaquiles.
Persons: Encarnación Pinedo, Ford Fry, , it’s, chilaquiles, Doña Lena Organizations: Aztecs Locations: Mexico, United States, Mexican American, Tex, Tokyo, Berkeley, Calif, Nana’s, Houston, Mexican
This Melon Salad Is Pure Pleasure
  + stars: | 2023-07-05 | by ( Bryan Washington | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +3 min
They’re the sorts of dishes that might percolate if you gave yourself the permission and authority to know yourself — in lieu of who you’re told to be. The expansiveness and allowance Moore gives us is pretty exhilarating: Flipping through pages, I was giddy. Jamaican cuisine is hardly unfamiliar with plant-based cooking, but that is seldom the focal point of its oft-exported wares. When I asked Moore why she chose to focus on vegan dishes, she said that going vegan “hasn’t affected my relationship with Jamaican food at all. As a culture’s comfort with a cuisine expands, its ability to tolerate play can follow.
Persons: you’re, Moore, , it’s, what’s, Danny Chau Locations: United States, New
Though its roots might be attributed to the Mexican flauta, the taquito’s origins are varyingly tied to early-20th-century California. On the Whataburger menu, a less traditional form of the taquito holds a place of distinction. What makes taquitos especially dreamy is how they weave into the rhythms of daily life. I’ve scarfed them while jogging from Terminals B — the only terminal with a Whataburger — to E through George Bush Intercontinental Airport. But what makes taquitos especially dreamy is how they weave themselves into the rhythms of daily life: I’ve picked up sacks of Whataburger taquitos en route to help paint friends’ houses.
Persons: you’ve, Whataburger, I’ve, George, I’ll Organizations: George Bush Intercontinental Airport Locations: California, Corpus Christi , Texas, South, mayo
Oyakodon Is Bliss in a Bowl
  + stars: | 2023-05-07 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
Oyakodon Is Bliss in a BowlGood morning. Bryan Washington has a lovely column in The New York Times Magazine this week about the joys of oyakodon (above), the Japanese rice bowl with chicken and egg. The name translates to “parent-and-child bowl.”Bryan’s eaten oyakodon all over Japan, and he’s perfected it in his home kitchen. …MondayI love this Ali Slagle recipe for crisp gnocchi with sausage and peas, draped in mustard and melted Parmesan cheese. It’s a hearty meal that feels like spring, but if you want to plush it up a little against a cold snap, add a splash of heavy cream.
The Particular Magic of Chicken, Egg and Rice
  + stars: | 2023-05-03 | by ( Bryan Washington | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +3 min
Even just watching the glistening bowls of animated katsudon — fried pork loins, simmered in eggs — in animated episodes of “Yuri!!! But while every iteration of donburi is three kinds of magical, oyakodon is what I’ll always return to. Tiny epiphanies: the chicken’s suppleness, the egg’s slickness, the reassuring tug of rice on your teeth. Or my calibration of liquid to filling wasn’t quite hitting, overtaking the bowl of rice rather than collaborating with it. With every attempt, your preferences may change, and with every alteration you make, oyakodon becomes squarely, and decidedly, yours.
My first bites of bánh cuốn were hardly intentional — they came from a banh mi shop tucked in Houston’s Third Ward. I’d been working at a day care, and also a stadium’s parking company, and most of what I ate came from this tiny Vietnamese spot. Several weeks after that he just handed me a bag of boxed bánh cuốn, with separate tins for fish sauce and bean sprouts, alongside an edict: enough. Eating streetside bánh cuốn in the morning, in the hubbub of other diners, over a stool and folding table, is basically a miracle. The thickness of your bánh cuốn might vary from restaurant to restaurant, and also your fillings, but you’ll still find yourself won over from iteration to iteration.
Persons: bánh, I’d, Sir, , “ Bryan, , đá, Jerry Mai, you’ll, you’ve Organizations: Food Locations: Vietnam, Food Vietnam, Bellaire
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